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Know the Basics of Antique
Clock Identification |
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A four page report detailing what to look for in assessing a
Antique clock, yours free for the asking! Order your copy today, or for our
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INDEX
KNOW THE BASICS OF ANTIQUE CLOCK
IDENTIFICATION
| Pat Morrell |
PATzCAT@CtClocksandTime
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Preface
Most, but not all, clock styles have been reproduced by many
makers. Some have been copied in almost exact detail. Here is where the buyer
must have some form of knowledge as to what he or she is looking for.When there
is reproduction with intent to mislead or defraud the buyer, including the
marking of the case, cabinet, dial, or movement with the name of a famous
maker, it is counterfeiting. Careful examination is required to detect this
type of abuse. Not infrequently, movements, dials and other elements of a clock
have been removed from damaged cases and installed in ones of the same or
different style that are in better condition. The resulting clock is called a
marriage, and these clocks are widely sold to the unsuspecting buyer. I should
also note that many artful mass-produced reproductions of older American clocks
were imported from Korea during the 1970s. The movements or cases of these
clocks were hardly ever marked, except occasionally with a self adhesive label,
imprinted with the word "Korea". With the passing of time, such labels have
either separated or been removed from these clocks, making them more difficult
to distinguish from the originals. One further thought should be made, and that
is, in repairing a movement, some owners have replaced original movements with
these comparatively inexpensive reproduction movements, available today in most
clock catalogs. The worst case being installing a battery operated quartz
movement. These practices may severely reduce, or even completely destroy the
value of an otherwise collectible clock. It is with this understanding and
context, that I offer the following key steps in identifying a good antique
clock, for as long as the clock is not misrepresented as such, it will still
have a value.
1. The case
This is usually our first eye contact when looking at a clock,
if the case is made of metal, marble, or porcelain, the main thing we should be
concerned with, is looking for cracks, chips, re-painting, or repairs to the
surfaces. If the case is made of wood, a closer examination is necessary. As
with all things, age also has its effects on wood. If this wood looks new, like
a piece of today’s furniture, then the clock is not old. If the wood is a
veneer finish, look closely at the surface for signs of bubbling, pealing or
separation at the seems. In the case of solid woods, look for a dull glossy
finish, or if it has been shellacked or varnished, look for signs of crackling
on the surface. These are all signs of aged wood. Beware of wooden clocks that
have been stripped and refinished, also note that each piece of wood should
look identical in finish to all the other pieces of wood on the clock.
2. The overall appearance
Our next step should be to look at the clock in general. Does
the dial, hands, glass and other components of the clock look in proportion to
the case? Look at all the sides of the clock, keep an eye out for extra holes
in the case. A lot of old clocks had feet, finials, or decorative tops added to
them, are they missing? Look at the back of the clock, is it a solid back with
no extra holes? Extra holes here could mean it has a replaced movement, or a
missing alarm mechanism. The only reason I would consider one or two extra
holes in this area would be that the clock was nailed or screwed to a wall, in
which case the hole would be visible through the front of the clock. Finally
look at the screws and nails used on the clock. Squarehead nails are signs of
old times compared to roundhead nails which are more modern, much the same as
flat tip screws are older than Philip head screws. Also note that flat tip
screws always shows signs of rust. They didn’t have stainless steel or
galvanized screws in use back then.
3. The dial
A few extra minutes here will help you to determine if the
dial is original to the clock, or if it is a replacement or reproduction. First
make sure the dial is centered over the clock movement, with the numbers 12 and
6 lined up straight down the center of the clock, then check that the winding
holes are centered over the winding arbors. Look for signs of wear around the
keyholes, here again, age leaves it’s marks. It is easy to tell the age of
a wooden or paper dial, but in the case of a porcelain dial, a good eye is all
you have to go on. Now look closely for any identifying trademarks or names
especially at the bottom of the dial. It is usually here were we will find the
manufacture and country of origin.
4. The dial bezel
The brass ring around the dial which retains the glass or
“door” of the clock face, is referred to as the dial bezel. A lot of
earlier clock manufacturers used to stamp in this area a name or patent date.
If found, these markings add to the value of the clock, in terms of identifying
or dating it.
5. The hands
In this area of a clock, only a lot of experience with similar
clocks of the same type, will you be able to tell if the hands are original to
the clock or not. There were various shapes and styles used during different
periods of time, thus only by comparing them to catalogs or similar clocks can
one tell the difference. The main concern for the buyer here is that the two
hands are similar in appearance and fit the dial proportionately, meaning that
the minute hand is longer than the hour hand, and follows the outside time
tract of the dial. Here also we should note what holds the hands onto the
movement. Older clocks used a small tapered pin through the center of the
shaft, where as more modern clocks used a threaded nut. This is not to say that
if you see a nut, that the clock is not an antique. French and Swiss clock
makers developed threading long before American clock makers.
6. The glass
Probably the most replaced item on a clock, besides the
original key, is the glass. Accidents and breakage are bound to occur over the
years. My only focus here is to point out that a lot of old clocks are still
retaining their original glass. This can only mean an added value to the clock.
Older clock glass is readily visible from newer clock glass. First look at it
from the side, it will appear wavy and uneven compared to new flat glass. Upon
closer examination, you will notice bubbles or flaws imbedded into the glass
itself. Also take note of what retains the glass in its housing. Broken or new
wood strips indicate replacement. In the case of stenciled or painted glass
panels, again age tells the truth, look for crackling, peeling, or voids in the
pattern, from years of cleaning. One further note, is that better quality
clocks used glass with beveled edges.
7. The label
The majority of clocks manufactured are undated, and to most
buyers, the age of their prized clock is an important factor. Fortunately a lot
of American manufacturers affixed a label to their clocks, either on the
backboard or inside the case. Labels usually bear the name and address of the
maker, and sometimes the model of the clock. In a lot of cases, it also carries
the name of the printer who made the label. With this information, American
clocks can usually be dated within a few years of when they were manufactured.
Labels are readily reproduced and sold, so here again look closely at your
label, and say to yourself, what effect would 100 years have on a piece of
paper?
8. The pendulum
Once again, much like the hands of the clock, only a lot of
experience viewing catalogs and similar clocks, can one tell if the pendulum is
original to the clock. As long as the clock keeps good time and the pendulum is
hidden, no further thought should be given to this area. How ever, if the
pendulum is visible, then it becomes a focal point as to if it is the original
one. Again age plays a major role in your evaluation, if it looks right for the
clock, then accept it as such.
9. The movement
This is where we come to the heart of the clock. All movements
have what they call a front plate and a back plate. The majority of
manufacturers either stamped a front or back plate with their name or
trademark. Most movements stamped on the back plate are easily viewed through
one type of an opening or another. However, movements stamped on the front
plate, are generally hidden from the eye of the buyer. It is here where I
recommend that you deal directly with the seller, and request that the hands
and dial be removed for viewing the movement. I know this is a lot to ask of
the seller, but it is the only way you can guarantee that the movement is
original to the clock. Movements not original to a clock usually show that the
mounting holes do not match up. Careful inspection in this area will reveal
extra screw holes in the case. The mutation may appear authentic, but believe
me it is not. One further note is to look at how the two plates are joined
together, here again, tapered pins joining the plates indicate an older time
frame, then threaded nuts joining the plates.
10. The conclusion
Now that we have viewed our clock from the outside in, it is
time to make a determination as to if the clock is a valuable heirloom. If the
markings on the dial, label, and movement are the same name or trademark, it is
reasonable to assume that the clock is original and worth purchasing. Also if
there were no other discrepancies found in your evaluation, then you truly will
be purchasing a valuable heirloom to be handed down from generation to
generation. Please keep in mind that if minor discrepancies were found, this
doesn’t mean you should pass the clock up, just adjust the amount your
willing to pay accordingly. Remember this, some types of clocks, you will
rarely see twice in your lifetime. It is here that I hope enough knowledge has
been supplied, to provide you with a pleasant purchasing experience. As in all
things, “caveat emptor” ( Buyer Beware).
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Time
Stratford, Conn. 06615
(203) 377-6334
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